03/03/2004
12/17/2003
12/04/2003
11/05/2003
Bad Traffic, Big Houses, Parting Hellos
10/15/2003
A dangerous city meets everyday minutia
10/08/2003
A visit to a Kindergarten, a University.
09/30/2003
I look at a lot of houses and enter a lot of homes.
09/26/2003
I spend a few hot days being grateful for, and disliking, new intense security measures.
09/21/2003
After a few months in the States, I'm in Amman preparing to return to Baghdad.
06/12/2003
More Food, Cooking Lessons, and Conversations with Women
06/02/2003
A trip to one of Saddam's bombed and looted palaces, plus a brief visit with Uday's lions
05/30/2003
I get a good long cooking lesson and try to figure out whether the Americans are blowing it here
The Library Is Gone, Mr. Rumsfeld
05/24/2003
I find out about the fate of the Iraqi National Library, and more.
05/21/2003
Getting to know journalists, Iraqis, and my kitchen.
Lunch at ORHA, Lunch With a Sheik
05/20/2003
I have two lunches in one day that make me worry about the future of Iraq (and, also, kinda sick).
05/18/2003
I visit the mass graves at Mahawil, later meet a young man who impossibly survived the massacre.
05/16/2003
in Baghbad
05/14/2003
Preparations & the Dead Sea
05/11/2003
trip to Amman